Chapter 3 — full chapter
Chapter 3 — full chapter
3.6 Dyeing and Finishing
Dyes, prints, coatings and finishes are part of a textile product’s material composition. They may represent only a small proportion of its weight, but they can strongly influence colour, appearance, performance, chemical safety and future recovery.
Textile colouration and finishing can involve dyes, pigments, binders, salts, surfactants, water-repellent treatments, flame retardants, softeners, printing pastes and other chemical formulations. Their environmental impact depends on the specific chemistry, process, fibre type and treatment system used. Dyeing and finishing wastewater can contain complex mixtures of colourants, salts, organic compounds and other pollutants, which is why appropriate chemical management and wastewater treatment are important (Holkar et al., 2016; Yaseen & Scholz, 2019).
From a product-anatomy perspective, the important question is not only what the main fibre is, but also what has been added to it. A recyclable fibre may become more difficult to recover when it carries incompatible coatings, prints, laminates or substances of concern.
When analysing a garment, consider:
- what dyes or pigments have been used;
- whether coatings, membranes or finishes are present;
- whether the treatment changes the material’s recyclability;
- whether substances of concern may remain in future material cycles;
- whether the supplier can provide reliable chemical and processing information.
Dyeing and finishing should therefore be treated as part of the product’s material identity rather than as an invisible production step.
Chapter 5 examines how manufacturers can reduce the water, energy and chemical impacts of dyeing and finishing through process efficiency, cleaner technologies, closed-loop systems and chemical management.
Key takeaway: A fibre does not determine circularity on its own. What is added to the fibre during colouration and finishing can change both its environmental impact and its future recovery options.