1.9.1 Bibliography

  • [1] Breque, M., De Nul, L., Petridis, A. (2021). Industry 5.0: Towards a sustainable, human-centric and resilient European industry. European Commission, DG Research and Innovation.
  • [2] Carbonfact (2026). ESPR crash course, how the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation will impact apparel and footwear brands. carbonfact.com.
  • [3] Deloitte (2026). European Sustainability Reporting, Omnibus legislative developments and updates to the ESRS. dart.deloitte.com.
  • [4] Directive (EU) 2018/851 amending Directive 2008/98/EC on waste. Official Journal of the European Union, EUR-Lex.
  • [5] Directive (EU) 2025/1892 amending Directive 2008/98/EC on waste (textile EPR). Official Journal of the European Union, EUR-Lex.
  • [6] Ecosistant (2026). July 2026: EU ban on destruction of textiles and unsold goods. ecosistant.eu.
  • [7] Ecotextile News (2025). EU de minimis change set to impact Shein and Temu. ecotextile.com.
  • [8] Ellen MacArthur Foundation (2017). A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning Fashion's Future. ellenmacarthurfoundation.org.
  • [9] European Commission (2022). EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles, COM(2022) 141 final.
  • [10] European Commission (2026). New EU rules to stop destruction of unsold clothes and shoes. environment.ec.europa.eu.
  • [11] European Environment Agency (2024). Textiles and the environment: the role of design in Europe's circular economy. eea.europa.eu.
  • [12] Fletcher, K. (2014). Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys. Routledge.
  • [13] MUD Jeans. Lease A Jeans programme. mudjeans.eu.
  • [14] Reformation. RefScale sustainability methodology. thereformation.com.
  • [15] Regulation (EU) 2024/1781 establishing a framework for the setting of ecodesign requirements for sustainable products (ESPR). Official Journal of the European Union, EUR-Lex.
  • [16] The Conversation (2026). How Europe is using taxes to slow down fast fashion. theconversation.com.
  • [17] UNEP (2023). Sustainability and Circularity in the Textile Value Chain, A Global Roadmap. unep.org.
  • [18] WWD (2026). EU moves to end duty-free small parcels, targeting ultra-fast fashion players Shein and Temu. wwd.com.
  • Software, platforms and web resources linked in this chapter:
  • [19] H&M.
  • [20] MUD Jeans.
  • [21] Fairly Made. Traceability and impact platform for fashion.
  • [22] TrusTrace. Supply-chain traceability platform for fashion.
  • [23] Napper, I.E., Thompson, R.C. (2016). Release of synthetic microplastic plastic fibres from domestic washing machines: effects of fabric type and washing conditions. Marine Pollution Bulletin, 112(1-2), 39-45.

1.9.2 Glossary

  • 1. Analog value chain, a production system in which design, fit, and demand decisions are validated on physical objects, so that material is committed in order to acquire information.
  • 2. Digital value chain, a production system in which the same validation steps are performed on files, so that the marginal cost of one more iteration approaches zero.
  • 3. Overproduction, output in excess of demand, in an analog chain the materialized cost of forecasting under information scarcity.
  • 4. Fast fashion, the analog regime optimized for throughput, with high volumes, frequently renewed micro-collections and forecasting error absorbed by markdown and disposal.
  • 5. Slow fashion, the analog regime optimized for durability, with small series, long product life and transparent sourcing, historically limited by the fixed costs of short runs.
  • 6. Value chain, the sequence of stages a product passes through, from raw materials and design to end-of-life.
  • 7. Circular economy, an economic model that keeps materials and products in use and designs out waste.
  • 8. European Green Deal, the EU's overarching plan to reach climate neutrality by 2050.
  • 9. EU Textile Strategy, the 2022 EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles.
  • 10. ESPR, Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (EU) 2024/1781, setting ecodesign and information requirements.
  • 11. DPP, Digital Product Passport: a structured digital record accompanying a product through its lifecycle.
  • 12. EPR, Extended Producer Responsibility: producers bear end-of-life costs, with eco-modulated fees.
  • 13. Eco-modulation, adjusting EPR fees up or down according to a product's environmental design.
  • 14. Industry 4.0, digitalization of manufacturing for efficiency (IoT, automation, data).
  • 15. Industry 5.0, the same technologies redirected toward sustainable, human-centric value.
  • 16. RFID, Radio-Frequency Identification: wireless tags used for item-level tracking.
  • 17. Take-back, a scheme by which a brand collects used products for reuse or recycling.
Last modified: Wednesday, 9 September 2026, 9:52 PM