Chapter 4 — full chapter
4.4.5 Choosing an appropriate scheme
The most recognised logo is not necessarily the most relevant instrument. Selection should begin with the risk, decision, or claim that requires evidence.
A company should ask:
- What needs to be demonstrated? Organic origin, recycled content, safe chemistry, durability, labour conditions, facility management or product circularity?
- What is the object of assurance? A fibre, component, product, facility, supply chain, management system or company?
- How much of the value chain is covered? Does the scheme include physical chain of custody, transaction verification or only an assessment at one stage?
- Who performs the verification? Is assurance independent, accredited and based on defined evidence?
- What claim is permitted? Certification does not automatically authorise any wording or logo placement chosen by the brand.
- How much of the assortment is covered? A certified capsule, supplier, or material should not be presented as evidence for the entire business.
For SMEs, certification costs and supplier access can be significant constraints. It may be more effective to prioritise the schemes linked to the company’s most material risks, customer requirements and product claims rather than attempting to collect multiple certificates without a clear evidence strategy.
Key principle: certification can strengthen evidence, but it does not replace legal compliance, supplier due diligence, product testing or transparent communication about limitations.
The distinction is supported by the current guidance from GOTS, Textile Exchange, OEKO-TEX, ZDHC, EU Ecolabel, Fair Wear and Cradle to Cradle Certified
Try it now
open EUR-Lex and locate Regulation (EU) No 1007/2011 (fibre names and composition labelling) and the ESPR (EU) 2024/1781. For each, note the entry-into-force date and whether it applies to your product and company size. Then pick one certificate you currently use (GOTS, GRS, RCS, OEKO-TEX, Cradle to Cradle) and write down exactly what it proves — object, scope, certificate holder, validity — using the checklist in section 4.4.4.
RESOURCE INSIGHT: Circular Design Standard (CDS) — circular.fashion, version 6.0. An industry-developed framework built over five years, the CDS turns circularity into product- and material-specific criteria across four pillars: circular inputs, design for recyclability, design for longevity, and enabling circulation. It offers certification for apparel and positions itself as a pathway beyond compliance, aligned with ESPR and EPR eco-modulation requirements. Source: https://circular.fashion/en/circular_standard/index.html.