Chapter 2 — full chapter
2.4.2 Mycelium-grown fibrous mats
Mycelium-grown materials are made using the root-like structure of fungi. Instead of extracting a fibre from a plant or animal, the material is grown through a biological process. Mycelium can be cultivated on plant-based or agricultural side streams and shaped into sheets, foams or composite materials (MycoWorks, n.d.; Ecovative, n.d.; SQIM, n.d.).
In fashion, mycelium materials are most often explored as alternatives to leather, foam, packaging or structural components rather than as conventional woven or knitted fabrics. They are interesting because they can be grown into a desired shape, use renewable biological inputs and offer new possibilities for lower-impact material development (MycoWorks, n.d.; Ecovative, n.d.).
Useful questions for designers and SMEs include:
- What is the mycelium grown on?
- Is the material flexible, rigid, foam-like or leather-like?
- Does it need a coating or backing to perform well?
- Is it suitable for the intended product use?
- Can it be repaired, reused or safely recovered?
- Is the supplier able to provide consistent quality and traceability?
- Is the material commercially available or still at prototype stage?
Resource Insights:
Those are pioneer companies in mycelium grown materials
- Ecovative/Forager — AirLoom™ Hides — United States: Ecovative’s Forager platform grows continuous mycelium sheets for AirLoom™ Hides, intended for handbags, footwear, apparel and accessories, alongside MycoFlex®, a compostable pure-mycelium foam for cushioning and related applications.
- SQIM/Ephea — Italy: SQIM is the biotechnology platform behind Ephea, a family of 100% pure-mycelium mats grown and finished in Italy for premium fashion, accessories and luxury design; production is currently at pilot scale and available for collaborations.
- MycoWorks — Reishi™ — United States: MycoWorks grows Reishi™ using its Fine Mycelium™ process, which directs fungal mycelium into dense, interlocking structures that are subsequently tanned and finished to create premium sheets for fashion, footwear, furniture and automotive applications.
- ZVNDER / FUNGISKIN — Germany / Romania: ZVNDER makes leather-like sheets and accessories in Berlin from tinder-fungus fruiting bodies traditionally harvested and processed by families in Transylvania, Romania. Technically, FUNGISKIN is mushroom-cap material rather than cultivated mycelium leather.
- MycoFutures / Myco™ — Canada: Montréal-based MycoFutures is piloting a plastic-free, circular mycelium material with a leather-like appearance for hospitality accessories and commercial interiors.
- MYCL / MYLEA — Indonesia: MYCL develops MYLEA, a sheet material grown from mushroom mycelium and agricultural residues for footwear, fashion and interior applications.
- NEFFA / MycoTEX — Netherlands: NEFFA’s MycoTEX technology grows mycelium-based material directly into three-dimensional forms, aiming to produce seamless garments and products with less cutting and sewing waste.